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Cabinet Resources

Learn about kitchen space planning, cabinet trim and details, cabinet knowledge, kitchen budget planning, cabinet installation tips, cabinet care and cleaning, and more.

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Cabinet Knowledge

Learn all the nitty-gritty about cabinet materials, assembly, construction, cleaning, and more!

Online kitchen cabinets can be purchased and delivered in one of two ways: Assembled or Ready to Assemble (RTA).

Assembled kitchen cabinets, as the name implies, are delivered already built from the manufacturer and ready to be installed in the home. Assembled cabinets do not require the homeowner to build the cabinets; everything is complete, including all the drawers and hardware components.

RTA kitchen cabinets are delivered in a form that is commonly referred to as “flat packed” or unassembled. RTA cabinets require the consumer to put together and build the cabinets at the location that they are being installed. The cabinet is in a broken-down form and will require extra work from the installer.

Cabinets.com offers only fully assembled cabinets, because they provide a better value and longevity for your investment. Although both types of cabinets can appeal to different types of buyers, we have listed the pros and cons of both types so you can decide which type will best suit your needs.

Kitchen cabinets consist of many different materials; particleboard, MDF, plywood, and solid wood are the most common. All of these woods have very different characteristics, so it’s important to know what you are buying and to be educated on the different types of materials. Most manufacturers still use solid wood (maple, Cherry, oak) for the cabinet face frames and doors. Since it’s not economical to use solid wood for the entire cabinet due to availability and cost, manufacturers have to find an alternative wood for the cabinet sides and backs. Most manufacturers will turn to particle board or plywood to keep costs down and still affordable.

Particle board

Particle board is commonly used for the sides and backs of cheaper cabinets with a lower quality of construction. Particle board is made up of tiny little wood chips that have been compressed and adhered together with some type of glue. Particle board does not have the strength that plywood does and over time will chip more easily during normal wear and tear. Particle board will also tend to swell up if it sits in water for a period of time. Cheaper particle board is made with a very low quality glue that you would use for home projects, however some particle board is made with an industrial style glue and will hold up much better. One of the pros with particle board is that its easier to mill and form more consistently. A lot of manufacturers will use a higher end particle board for the cabinet shelves since the precision is better than plywood.

Plywood

Plywood is usually preferred by manufacturers that want to offer a higher end cabinet and still offer them at an affordable price. Plywood is much more durable than particle board and also much more water resistant. Instead of being made from wood chips, it consists of wood sheets that are compressed together and then veneered. Plywood is also much easier to drill and screw into making the assemble much easier.

New cabinets for your kitchen or bath can be a big investment and you want to keep them looking great for many years to come! There are some very simple things you can do to maintain their appearance.  Just like any other type of furniture, the cabinets should be dusted and/or vacuumed regularly to remove any dust particles that have accumulated. When dusting, we recommend using a polish-moistened or damp cloth and to wipe following the grain of the wood. Wiping against the grain could cause scratches if the dust contains grit.  Any residues caused from cooking oils or smoke should be wiped up with a damp cloth and a small amount of furniture cleaner. Old t-shirts, cheesecloth, dish towels, or flannels make great wiping cloths; just make sure they are clean and free of buttons or snaps so they don’t cause scratches.

It takes just a small amount of effort to keep a kitchen looking brand new. Here are a few more tips to help you keep your cabinets looking new for many, many years to come!

  • Wipe up spills, splatters, and water spots as they occur immediately, keeping the cabinets dry.

  • Clean as needed with a soft, lint-free cloth.  Use a mild detergent or soap with warm water.

  • Dry surfaces immediately with a soft cloth.

  • Avoid using a dish cloth or sponge. It could contain remnants of grease or detergents.

  • Do not use products with bleach, ammonia, or abrasive additives like petroleum solvents.

  • Never use scouring pads, steel wool, or powdered cleaners.

  • Do not allow oven cleaners to come into contact with wood surfaces.

  • Avoid placing small kitchen appliances where heat is directed onto cabinet surfaces.

  • Avoid draping damp cloths or dish towels over cabinet doors – excessive moisture can cause permanent damage.

  • We recommend Guardsman furniture polish, which is available at most stores.  As with any new cleaning product, test a small spot in an inconspicuous spot to ensure it doesn’t damage the cabinet surface.

Cabinet hardware is the final touch when designing your kitchen or bath cabinetry. It finishes off the entire look, as well as helps convey the “style” you are wanting to achieve. Sometimes all it takes is a change in hardware to completely transform the look of a space.

Knobs, Pulls, and More

There are many different types of hardware available in a variety of finishes. There are your standard knobs and pulls, as well as cup pulls, which are popular paired with Shaker cabinets, and sleek “European” style cabinet bar pulls, which help bring a dose of modern to a space. Knobs and pulls can have a textured design to them or be smooth and bright. For finishes, brushed nickel tends to be the most popular because it makes a kitchen or bath seem more modern and also matches well with stainless steel appliances.

Knobs are traditionally used for doors and cabinet pulls are for drawers, but rules can be thrown out the window in the name of comfort and ease. The hardware has to work for the people using the space. Some pulls can be too small to fit big hands, while knobs can be hard for someone with arthritis to grab and pull.

Door Hinges and Drawer Glides

The hinges for the doors are a very important part of the design since they are used for the opening and closing of the doors. Hinges are almost always concealed, which provides a cleaner look to the cabinets. Soft close hinges are available now, which slows the cabinet door so it doesn’t slam. Soft close hinges cut down on noise of banging cabinets and also help minimize wear and tear on the cabinets.

The glides you choose for your drawers are another important choice. The least expensive choice is an all plastic glide, which isn’t the best structurally as it can’t support heavier loads. An all metal glide can handle more weight and is more durable. Some glides only allow the drawer to pull out partially, leaving part of the drawer in the cabinet box while others allow the drawer to be pulled completely out (full extension), which exposes all the drawer contents. Drawer glides are also available with the soft-close function.

Tips For Installing the Hardware

While you can place hardware wherever it makes the most sense for you and your needs, there are a few guidelines that help with the placement. On cabinet doors, it is best to use the cabinet rails and stiles as your guide. If you are using a knob, line it up with the top of the bottom door rail and center it on the stile. If using a pull, line up the bottom of the pull with the top of the bottom door rail and center it on the stile as well. If you have a bank of drawers and the bottom one is larger than the others, place it up higher on the drawer front rather than right in the center like the others. It makes it easier to use without needing to bend all the way down to the ground to reach your cabinet knob.

If you want to place the hardware before drilling, you could temporarily attach the hardware to the cabinets and drawers with adhesive putty. This may help you get an idea of what it would look like, as well as give you an idea of where to drill your holes. There are also template tools that can help you plan where you need to put the holes for the hardware. If you are replacing existing hardware and the new hardware leaves the old holes exposed, get a coordinating back plate to cover up the previous drill marks.

Kitchen Space Planning

Learn the basics of kitchen planning, the work triangle, and the common design dilemma of options for working with an 8′ ceiling.

Your kitchen is the busiest place in your home and it must be functional for you and your family.  Every inch of space is important and you want to make sure all areas are taken into account.

Aisles and Walkways

Your walkways and kitchen work aisles must be wide enough to accommodate the cook as well as allow at least one person to get by them if need be.  A work aisle, which would be the space between the sink and kitchen island for example, should be a minimum of 42″. If you know you will need to be able to fit two cooks at once in the same space, up it to 48″ wide.  A walkway leading to another space or doorway, but doesn’t interfere with food prep, should be 36″ wide at the least.

Important Kitchen Dimensions

Cabinet/Countertop Dimensions

Standard countertop height in a kitchen is 36″. This is a comfortable height for most people when cooking or preparing food.  For a raised bar area, 42″ would be the counter height. This allows a person to sit on a barstool and not knock their knees on the counter. If you are designing a kitchen with a bar area the same height as the rest of your counters (36″), make sure you get counter stools to sit on at your island. A regular barstool would be much too high.

Standard Kitchen Heights

As far as typical countertop depths, a cabinet is 24″ deep and a countertop is typically 25″ deep, which provides a small lip and helps protect your cabinets from spills and damage.

The space beside your appliances and sink is important as well. You have to make sure you have enough room to prep food and place dishes.  For an open food prep area, 36″ of free space is ideal. A minimum of 12″ should be allowed by your stove and 18″ by your sink.

Work Triangle Distance

Work triangles are an important factor in kitchen planning. A work triangle consists of the sink, range, and refrigerator. These are the three areas that most people travel back and forth to while in the kitchen and you want them to be only steps away from each other for convenience.

Kitchen Work Triangle

If you want to guarantee the perfect space plan for your kitchen and that all the important dimensions are taken into consideration, plan on using a Cabinets.com kitchen designer! We have professional kitchen designers on staff who are experts with kitchen layouts and can help make your kitchen work for you! 

There are two choices when designing cabinets for a kitchen that has a lower ceiling. You can either use 36″ tall upper cabinets, which allows for crown molding to be used along the top or you can use 42″ tall upper cabinets that go all the way to the ceiling without any molding. Below is a breakdown of the pros and cons of each choice.

Using 36″ Tall Upper Cabinets

This is by far the safest choice when designing around an 8-ft ceiling.  The cabinets won’t go all the way to the ceiling, which gives you the chance to add crown molding. The size molding is up to you. If you select a smaller profile crown molding, there will be a small amount of space above the cabinets.  If you would rather not bother with that, adding a riser and larger profile crown molding will eliminate the space and give the illusion of the cabinets going all the way to the ceiling. This may be your best bet aesthetically.

Here is a working drawing of a kitchen with an 8-ft ceiling. This design shows crown molding on top of 36″ tall uppers and a small space between the crown and ceiling.

drawing of a kitchen with an 8 foot ceiling where crown molding is placed on top of 36

Here is the same kitchen with a riser molding added below the crown molding, which takes the cabinets all the way to the ceiling.

drawing of a kitchen with an 8 foot ceiling where a riser molding is added below the crown molding, taking the cabinets all the way to the ceiling

The riser molding is outlined in red.

riser molding outlined in red in an off-white kitchen

Using 42″ Tall Upper Cabinets

Some people are completely focused on having as much storage as possible in the kitchen and selecting 42″ upper cabinets will definitely give you more space.  It also helps make the ceiling appear larger by having the cabinets touch the ceiling.  But, be warned, the extra space does come with a few caveats.  There is a good chance your ceiling isn’t going to be completely flush in all places, so fillers and some extra work may be needed to make the uppers look even.  With larger upper cabinets, you also lose the ability to use decorative crown molding. If you want even the slightest bit of decorative molding, you would have to drop the cabinets down a bit, which is not ideal.  Crown molding is just a decorative feature, but it really does finish off the space, and may not be something you want to sacrifice.

Other Things to Think About

If you are planning on a floor to ceiling pantry in your kitchen, and have decided to use 42″ upper cabinets in the space, the coordinating tall cabinet is 96″ high. So, now you are trying to install a cabinet the same size as your ceiling. This can become almost impossible to install into its upright position since the diagonal measurement needed to do this is close to 100″ or more.

illustration of diagonal measurement for ceiling height clearance during cabinet installation

To gain these extra clearance inches, the cabinet often has to have the toe kick portion removed, or even the top back corner of the cabinet notched. Also, if you decide to lower the backsplash height to include a small ¾” molding, that makes even more space you need to try and deduct from the cabinet height to make it all fit. In summary, with 8′ ceilings, a 90″ cabinet is almost mandatory to ensure proper fit, and the ability to install the cabinet. Even if you have sacrificed the decorative molding for more space, this one cabinet needs to be taken into consideration.

Having trouble designing your 8-ft kitchen? Talk to our kitchen designers today! Our staff of professional kitchen designers will help you design your kitchen for free. They provide 3D renderings, itemized quotes, expert advice, and more!

Cabinet Trim & Details

From skins to moldings, to bunn feet – learn what is needed to complete the finished look of your project, and details to give a furniture look!

Molding is an important detail and finishing touch for kitchen cabinetry. Molding improves the overall effect of the kitchen by creating a custom and polished look. There are several different kinds of molding options available. Depending on your design preferences and selected cabinets the options are almost limitless. Here are some of the most common molding options available for your kitchen cabinets.

Crown Molding

Crown Molding is used to finish the tops of tall and wall cabinets. All Cabinets.com cabinet door styles are Full Overlay – this means the doors overlap the front face frame of the cabinet box, leaving only a small amount visible. Since this visible reveal will vary depending on the specific cabinet line you choose, cabinets that have smaller reveals may require the Crown Molding to be installed on top of the cabinet frame instead of to the face, secured with blocking from behind. Crown is available in various styles and sizes to accommodate different design styles and ceiling heights.

cabinet illustration showing crown molding
 

Starter/Riser Molding

A Starter or Riser Molding is used as a mounting frame for Crown Molding in order to increase the overall height of a Crown Molding assembly, or allow it to rise flush to the ceiling. Ceiling heights are variable and Crown Molding is rarely the exact height required to fit the overall space. A Starter or Riser Molding is mounted to the cabinet top in order to simulate an extension of the cabinet box, allowing the Crown Molding to be installed higher. Using a Starter or Riser Molding in conjunction with a Crown Molding also provides the ability to better disguise an uneven ceiling, as one end of the Crown Molding may be mounted higher or lower than the other end along the face of the Riser.

cabinet illustration showing starter/riser molding
 

Light Rail Molding

Light Rail Molding is used to finish the bottom of wall cabinets. It can function as a trim to conceal under-cabinet lighting fixtures and provide a barrier from the light glare, or simply serve as a decorative enhancement. Light Rail Moldings are available in a variety of styles and sizes to accommodate different design styles. When selecting a Light Rail Molding, be mindful of the molding height to ensure the open space left after installation will accommodate any countertop appliances.

cabinet illustration showing light rail molding
 

Base Molding

Base Molding is generally used to provide a decorative trim at the floor level of base cabinets by installing it with the profiled edge facing up. It completes the lower sections of panel skins used on islands and peninsulas to give them a more furniture-like feel. Installing the molding along the lower section of cabinet sides to the toe recess creates one continuous look. Base Molding can also be reversed (used with the profiled edge facing down) in higher areas where a wide decorative molding is desired. (See ‘Starter/Riser Molding’ below)

cabinet illustration showing base molding
 

Fillers

Fillers are most commonly used to “fill” any gap or leftover space in a run of cabinetry by field-cutting them to the desired size. They can be used vertically to provide additional space between a cabinet and a wall in order to keep the edge of doors from binding into the wall, or to keep fully extended drawers from impacting close obstacles. They can be used horizontally as crown, light rail, or valance. They can also be used to add additional height and dimension as a riser molding (See ‘Starter/Riser Molding’ below). Fillers are available in widths of 3” and 6” in a variety of lengths to best accommodate their specific use with minimum waste.

cabinet illustration showing fillers
 

Toe Kick Molding

The purpose of a toe kick space is to create a recess for your feet, which allows you to stand closer to the countertop or workspace more comfortably. The toe kick stretcher attached to the cabinet is usually made of unfinished material. After installation, a finished Toe Kick Molding is applied to cover an entire run of unfinished toe space. Toe Kick Molding is a 96” long strip of finished covering that is field-cut and positioned in the recess to provide a continuous completed look to the cabinetry.

cabinet illustration showing toe kick molding
 

Scribe Molding

Scribe Molding is a thin piece of finished trim used to cover any areas that may have uneven gaps or raw edges visible once installation is complete. It is slightly flexible, allowing it to follow slight curvatures against walls, floors, or ceilings. It is typically used any place the straight edges of cabinetry visibly come into contact with a surface that is bowed or uneven. It is available in 96” lengths and must be field-cut to cover any visible gaps or seams against walls, floors, and ceilings up to ½” wide. It is also used to cap the cut, unfinished edge of a Toe Kick Molding or any other raw edge of material up to ¾” wide.

cabinet illustration showing scribe molding
 

Corner Molding

Corner molding is used to cover an unfinished edge or a gap where two panels or pieces of material meet at a 90 degree angle. Outside Corner Molding is used to cap the raw edge of material visible on an exterior corner. Inside Corner Molding is used to cover any gaps where two pieces of material meet on an interior corner. They should be used in conjunction with any design that will require finished paneling on the back of a cabinet such as an island or peninsula.

cabinet illustration showing corner moldings
 

Skin Panels

Skin Panels are 1/4” plywood with a matching finish on one side. They are available in a variety of sizes in order to provide finish options for different needs. Some cabinet lines have unfinished sides and will require a Skin Panel applied to all cabinet sides that will be visible after installation. These Skin Panels are available in specific sizes and are designed to fit on the side of a cabinet behind the face frame edge with no field-cuts required. Oversized Skin Panels, such as those used to finish the back of an island or to cover a stack of cabinetry, are larger and must be field-cut to the desired dimensions. When installing a Refrigerator End Panel Return against the flat edge of a countertop, a Tall Skin Panel Skin should be applied to the exposed side in order to provide a continuous flush surface against the straight edge of the counter.

A kitchen with cabinets mounted at staggered heights can create issues when using crown molding. This can happen when a shorter wall cabinet is next to a taller, diagonal wall cabinet. One solution is to make the shorter cabinet 12″ in depth and the diagonal corner wall cabinet 15″ deep. The 3″ of extra depth provides a place for the crown molding to return into. If the cabinets are all 12″ deep, you will have to use a piece of filler and return the crown molding back at a 22.5 degree angle to prevent issues with the door opening of the diagonal corner wall cabinet.

The picture below shows how to use a piece of filler to fill void between the crown molding and wall cabinet. Where the molding meets the block, the molding is cut at 45 degrees.

Crown moulding on lower wall cabinet showing 45-degree crown and piece of filler behind

You will need to measure the height of the crown molding and cut a piece of filler to the same height and typically about 3-4″ in length. You will then fasten the piece of filler to the top of the shorter wall cabinet and against the edge of the taller, diagonal wall cabinet. Cut the moldings with 22.5 degree miters and fasten to the filler.

When you raise the height of the wall cabinet above a microwave/hood in a run where all of the cabinets are 12″ deep, the doors of that cabinet above the microwave/hood can be damaged by making contact with the crown molding next to it if the crown is returned back at a 90 degree angle. Returning the crown back at a 22.5 degree angle can prevent the doors from hitting the crown molding in a straight run.

There are some small things that you can do to improve the look of your crown molding. When you have a miter cut, use your touch-up marker to stain the inside edges of the crown before you fasten them together. When you have a long run that requires a joint, cut the angle so it faces away from the direction that you walk into a room. It makes the joint more difficult to see.

Many homeowners look for ways to make their kitchen stand out and adding furniture style details is a great way to accomplish a custom look. Below are a few furniture details adapted for cabinetry that can be added on as details to finish off the look of your space.

Decorative Corbels

Corbels can be added to kitchen islands or peninsulas and can make a simple cabinet look elegant. Most corbels available are detailed and ornate – they will stand out from the cabinets.  Choose corbels wisely since they will draw attention to whatever area they are in. You want them to add to your kitchen, but not overpower it. View our photo gallery for design ideas on decorative corbels here.

decorative corbels add elegant detail to a white kitchen island

Legs

A great way to add detail to your kitchen cabinets is to add legs to your island or lower cabinets.  Legs add another level of dimension to the space. Some homeowners even add countertop edge detail to complement the style of the decorative furniture legs. Browse through design ideas on adding post legs here.

post legs placed on both sides of a sink base cabinet elevates the look of the kitchen

Aprons

An apron, when referring to cabinets, is the piece of wood under and around the countertop overhang on an island or peninsula. The standard height for an apron is 3″ and you’ll want to ensure you allow room for legs under the countertop. Browse through our photo gallery for design ideas on how you can add aprons to your kitchen cabinetry here.

apron and post legs shown on a dark stained kitchen island

End Panels

We recommend adding end panels to cabinets whenever the cabinetry doesn’t end at a wall. The end panels should match the style of your cabinet doors and drawers. Your kitchen cabinets will look more polished and finished off when end panels are added.

end panel shown in off-white galley kitchen with trash pull out

Valances

Decorative valances are added to upper cabinets and come in many different shapes and styles.  They can be used to hide under-cabinet lighting or exhaust fans. A valance above the stove top adds a decorative touch. Valances can also be used in the toe-space in your base cabinets to give it a furniture-look.

valance over kitchen sink in antique white galley kitchen

Toe Kicks

The standard toe kick in a base cabinet is 4″, which allows homeowners to stand at their cabinets comfortably and not knock their toes on the top when moving.  There may be a spot in your kitchen that isn’t essential to food prep or cleaning where you can add a more decorative style toe kick. A more detailed toe kick will give an island a look of being free-standing furniture.

toe kick on a Shaker II Maple Toffee base cabinet

Moldings

We have a selection of crown moldings and inserts that can be added on to your upper cabinets. Adding crown to cabinets will help the kitchen look finished off. You can select a molding or insert to match the style of your kitchen. A rope inset can also be added to the crown molding for a decorative accent. Check out some beautiful crown molding ideas  shaker-style white kitchen with furniture style details like crown molding

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